[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":603},["ShallowReactive",2],{"post-\u002Fblog\u002Fentretenir-cible-sisal":3,"post-other-\u002Fblog\u002Fentretenir-cible-sisal":312},{"id":4,"title":5,"body":6,"date":302,"description":303,"extension":304,"key":305,"meta":306,"navigation":307,"path":308,"seo":309,"stem":310,"__hash__":311},"blog_fr\u002Fblog\u002Fentretenir-cible-sisal.md","Entretenir une cible en sisal pour qu'elle dure des années",{"type":7,"value":8,"toc":290},"minimark",[9,13,18,26,37,41,44,55,68,71,75,82,85,89,92,107,110,114,117,137,144,157,161,168,171,194,197,201,204,235,252,256],[10,11,12],"p",{},"Une cible en sisal de bonne qualité peut tenir des années, ou s'user en quelques mois autour du triple 20. La différence ne tient pas au prix, mais à quelques gestes que peu de joueurs connaissent. Aucun ne prend plus de deux minutes.",[14,15,17],"h2",{"id":16},"comment-fonctionne-une-cible-en-sisal","Comment fonctionne une cible en sisal",[10,19,20,21,25],{},"Une cible « bristle », c'est des fibres de sisal (une fibre végétale tirée de l'agave) serrées les unes contre les autres et coupées perpendiculairement à la surface. Quand une fléchette se plante, la pointe ",[22,23,24],"strong",{},"écarte les fibres"," au lieu de les percer. Quand tu la retires, les fibres se resserrent et le trou se referme : c'est ce qu'on appelle l'effet « autocicatrisant ».",[10,27,28,29,32,33,36],{},"Tout l'entretien découle de là : ",[22,30,31],{},"ne pas abîmer les fibres",", et ",[22,34,35],{},"répartir l'usure"," pour qu'aucune zone ne s'épuise avant les autres.",[14,38,40],{"id":39},"faire-tourner-la-cible","Faire tourner la cible",[10,42,43],{},"C'est le geste le plus important. Les joueurs visent surtout le 20, le 19 et quelques doubles : ces zones prennent l'essentiel des impacts et s'usent bien plus vite que le reste.",[10,45,46,47,50,51,54],{},"La solution : ",[22,48,49],{},"faire pivoter la cible"," de temps en temps, puis remettre le ",[22,52,53],{},"cercle des numéros"," dans le bon sens, avec le 20 en haut. Sur la plupart des cibles récentes, ce cercle se détache (il est tenu par des clips ou des encoches) justement pour ça.",[56,57,58,62,65],"ol",{},[59,60,61],"li",{},"Retire le cercle des numéros.",[59,63,64],{},"Décroche la cible et fais-la tourner d'un ou plusieurs segments.",[59,66,67],{},"Raccroche-la, puis replace le cercle avec le 20 en haut.",[10,69,70],{},"Ainsi, la zone usée du triple 20 se retrouve ailleurs, dans un segment moins visé, et une zone fraîche prend sa place. Le rythme dépend de combien tu joues : dès que tu vois les fibres du triple 20 se creuser ou les trous mettre du temps à se refermer, c'est le moment. Certaines cibles ont un repère au dos ou un support qui facilite la rotation.",[14,72,74],{"id":73},"ne-jamais-la-mouiller","Ne jamais la mouiller",[10,76,77,78,81],{},"Une vieille idée circule encore : humidifier la cible pour « faire gonfler les fibres » et refermer les trous. ",[22,79,80],{},"C'est une mauvaise idée."," L'eau fait gonfler le sisal de façon inégale, la cible se déforme, les fibres se détachent plus facilement en séchant, et les fils métalliques peuvent rouiller.",[10,83,84],{},"Même chose pour les produits ménagers : pas de nettoyant, pas de spray. Un coup de brosse douce ou de chiffon sec suffit pour enlever la poussière de fibres.",[14,86,88],{"id":87},"attention-à-lhumidité-et-à-la-chaleur","Attention à l'humidité et à la chaleur",[10,90,91],{},"Une cave humide, un garage non chauffé ou une pièce au-dessus d'un radiateur abîment la cible lentement :",[93,94,95,101],"ul",{},[59,96,97,100],{},[22,98,99],{},"trop humide",", les fibres gonflent et perdent leur tenue ;",[59,102,103,106],{},[22,104,105],{},"trop sec et trop chaud",", elles se rétractent et cassent plus facilement.",[10,108,109],{},"Évite de l'installer juste au-dessus d'un radiateur ou en plein soleil derrière une vitre. Une pièce de vie normale, tempérée, lui convient très bien.",[14,111,113],{"id":112},"soigner-tes-pointes","Soigner tes pointes",[10,115,116],{},"Une pointe en mauvais état abîme la cible plus vite que n'importe quoi d'autre.",[93,118,119,125,131],{},[59,120,121,124],{},[22,122,123],{},"Une pointe trop affûtée"," (en aiguille) coupe les fibres au lieu de les écarter. Les trous ne se referment plus.",[59,126,127,130],{},[22,128,129],{},"Une pointe émoussée"," pousse les fibres, rebondit plus souvent et les arrache en ressortant.",[59,132,133,136],{},[22,134,135],{},"Une pointe qui a une bavure"," (un petit éclat de métal après un choc sur le fil ou le sol) agit comme un crochet.",[10,138,139,140,143],{},"L'idéal est une pointe ",[22,141,142],{},"légèrement arrondie",", ni aiguille ni boule. Une petite pierre à affûter pour fléchettes suffit : quelques passages légers en faisant tourner la fléchette, pas plus. Passe ton doigt sur la pointe de temps en temps pour sentir les bavures.",[10,145,146,147,150,151,156],{},"Pour retirer une fléchette, tire-la ",[22,148,149],{},"droit vers toi"," en la tournant légèrement. Pas de mouvement de levier de haut en bas, qui déchire les fibres. Plus d'infos sur le matériel dans ",[152,153,155],"a",{"href":154},"\u002Fblog\u002Fchoisir-ses-flechettes","choisir ses fléchettes",".",[14,158,160],{"id":159},"surveiller-les-fils-laraignée","Surveiller les fils (l'araignée)",[10,162,163,164,167],{},"L'",[22,165,166],{},"araignée",", c'est l'ensemble des fils métalliques qui séparent les zones. Sur les cibles modernes, elle est fine et tenue sans agrafes apparentes, ce qui limite les rebonds. Sur les modèles plus anciens ou d'entrée de gamme, des agrafes tiennent les fils.",[10,169,170],{},"Vérifie de temps en temps :",[93,172,173,180,187],{},[59,174,175,176,179],{},"qu'aucun fil ne ",[22,177,178],{},"se soulève"," ou ne bouge quand tu appuies dessus ;",[59,181,182,183,186],{},"qu'aucune agrafe ne ",[22,184,185],{},"dépasse"," ;",[59,188,189,190,193],{},"qu'aucun fil n'est ",[22,191,192],{},"tordu"," par un impact.",[10,195,196],{},"Un fil lâche, c'est des rebonds en série et des fléchettes qui tombent pile sur la frontière de deux zones. Si un fil se soulève, n'essaie pas de le recoller à la colle forte : c'est souvent le signe que la cible arrive en fin de vie.",[14,198,200],{"id":199},"quand-changer-de-cible","Quand changer de cible ?",[10,202,203],{},"Une cible bien entretenue dure longtemps, mais pas éternellement. Il est temps d'en changer quand :",[93,205,206,212,218,224,230],{},[59,207,208,211],{},[22,209,210],{},"les trous ne se referment plus",", même après rotation ;",[59,213,214,217],{},[22,215,216],{},"des fibres tombent"," ou des trous visibles restent au triple 20 ;",[59,219,220,223],{},[22,221,222],{},"les rebonds se multiplient"," sans que tes pointes y soient pour quelque chose ;",[59,225,226,229],{},[22,227,228],{},"la surface se bombe"," ou se creuse nettement ;",[59,231,232,156],{},[22,233,234],{},"l'araignée se décolle",[10,236,237,238,242,243,247,248,156],{},"Si tu comptes tes parties avec ",[152,239,241],{"href":240},"\u002Finstaller","Throw",", une cible fatiguée se voit aussi dans les volées : plus de rebonds à corriger à la main, plus de fléchettes qui ressortent. Pour le reste de l'installation (hauteur, lumière, protection du mur), lis ",[152,244,246],{"href":245},"\u002Fblog\u002Finstaller-cible-flechettes-maison","installer une cible chez soi",", et pour mieux connaître ta cible zone par zone, ",[152,249,251],{"href":250},"\u002Fblog\u002Fanatomie-cible-flechettes","l'anatomie d'une cible",[14,253,255],{"id":254},"lessentiel-en-5-gestes","L'essentiel en 5 gestes",[56,257,258,264,270,277,284],{},[59,259,260,263],{},[22,261,262],{},"Fais tourner"," la cible régulièrement, le 20 toujours en haut.",[59,265,266,269],{},[22,267,268],{},"Ne la mouille jamais",", pas de produit non plus.",[59,271,272,273,276],{},"Garde-la ",[22,274,275],{},"loin d'un radiateur"," et de l'humidité.",[59,278,279,280,283],{},"Des ",[22,281,282],{},"pointes légèrement arrondies",", sans bavure.",[59,285,286,289],{},[22,287,288],{},"Retire tes fléchettes droit",", en tournant un peu.",{"title":291,"searchDepth":292,"depth":292,"links":293},"",2,[294,295,296,297,298,299,300,301],{"id":16,"depth":292,"text":17},{"id":39,"depth":292,"text":40},{"id":73,"depth":292,"text":74},{"id":87,"depth":292,"text":88},{"id":112,"depth":292,"text":113},{"id":159,"depth":292,"text":160},{"id":199,"depth":292,"text":200},{"id":254,"depth":292,"text":255},"2026-10-27","Faire tourner la cible, ne jamais la mouiller, soigner tes pointes, surveiller les fils : les bons gestes pour faire durer ta cible, et quand la changer.","md","board-care",{},true,"\u002Fblog\u002Fentretenir-cible-sisal",{"title":5,"description":303},"blog\u002Fentretenir-cible-sisal","6lHmBuUvm01QE032bQ2Y8JlovFOzBy2QKLb52q8OANc",{"id":313,"title":314,"body":315,"date":302,"description":597,"extension":304,"key":305,"meta":598,"navigation":307,"path":599,"seo":600,"stem":601,"__hash__":602},"blog_en\u002Fen\u002Fblog\u002Fdartboard-care.md","Dartboard care: make your bristle board last for years",{"type":7,"value":316,"toc":587},[317,320,324,331,342,346,349,360,371,374,378,385,388,392,395,409,412,416,419,439,446,457,461,468,471,494,497,501,504,535,551,555],[10,318,319],{},"A decent bristle board can last for years, or wear out around treble 20 in a few months. The difference isn't the price tag; it's a handful of habits that surprisingly few players know about. None of them takes more than a couple of minutes.",[14,321,323],{"id":322},"how-a-bristle-board-works","How a bristle board works",[10,325,326,327,330],{},"A bristle board is made of sisal fibres (a plant fibre from the agave) packed tightly together and cut so the ends face the surface. When a dart goes in, the point ",[22,328,329],{},"pushes the fibres apart"," rather than piercing them. When you pull it out, the fibres close back up and the hole disappears: that's the \"self-healing\" effect.",[10,332,333,334,337,338,341],{},"Everything about looking after a board follows from that: ",[22,335,336],{},"don't damage the fibres",", and ",[22,339,340],{},"spread the wear"," so no area gives out before the rest.",[14,343,345],{"id":344},"rotate-the-board","Rotate the board",[10,347,348],{},"This is the big one. Players mostly aim at the 20, the 19 and a few favourite doubles, so those areas take the bulk of the hits and wear far faster than the rest.",[10,350,351,352,355,356,359],{},"The fix: ",[22,353,354],{},"rotate the board"," every so often, then put the ",[22,357,358],{},"number ring"," back the right way round with the 20 at the top. On most modern boards the number ring comes off (it's held by clips or notches) for exactly this reason.",[56,361,362,365,368],{},[59,363,364],{},"Take off the number ring.",[59,366,367],{},"Lift the board off and turn it by one or more segments.",[59,369,370],{},"Hang it back up and refit the number ring with the 20 at the top.",[10,372,373],{},"The worn treble 20 area ends up somewhere less popular, and a fresh patch takes its place. How often depends on how much you play: as soon as the fibres in treble 20 start to dip, or holes take a while to close, it's time. Some boards have a marker on the back or a bracket designed to make rotating easier.",[14,375,377],{"id":376},"never-wet-it","Never wet it",[10,379,380,381,384],{},"An old tip still does the rounds: dampen the board to \"swell the fibres\" and close the holes. ",[22,382,383],{},"Don't."," Water makes the sisal swell unevenly, the board warps, fibres come loose more easily as it dries, and the metal wires can rust.",[10,386,387],{},"The same goes for cleaning products: no sprays, no cleaners. A soft brush or a dry cloth is all you need to clear away fibre dust.",[14,389,391],{"id":390},"watch-the-damp-and-the-heat","Watch the damp and the heat",[10,393,394],{},"A damp cellar, an unheated garage or a spot above a radiator will slowly ruin a board:",[93,396,397,403],{},[59,398,399,402],{},[22,400,401],{},"too damp",", and the fibres swell and lose their grip;",[59,404,405,408],{},[22,406,407],{},"too hot and dry",", and they shrink and snap more easily.",[10,410,411],{},"Avoid hanging it right above a radiator or in full sun behind a window. An ordinary, temperate living space suits it perfectly.",[14,413,415],{"id":414},"look-after-your-points","Look after your points",[10,417,418],{},"A point in bad shape damages a board faster than anything else.",[93,420,421,427,433],{},[59,422,423,426],{},[22,424,425],{},"Too sharp"," (needle-like), and it cuts the fibres instead of parting them. The holes stop closing.",[59,428,429,432],{},[22,430,431],{},"Too blunt",", and it shoves the fibres aside, bounces out more often and tears them on the way out.",[59,434,435,438],{},[22,436,437],{},"A burr"," (a tiny lip of metal after hitting a wire or the floor) acts like a hook.",[10,440,441,442,445],{},"What you want is a ",[22,443,444],{},"slightly rounded"," point, neither a needle nor a ball. A small dart-sharpening stone is plenty: a few light strokes while turning the dart, no more. Run a finger over the point now and then to feel for burrs.",[10,447,448,449,452,453,156],{},"To pull a dart out, draw it ",[22,450,451],{},"straight towards you"," with a slight twist. No levering up and down, which rips the fibres. More on kit in ",[152,454,456],{"href":455},"\u002Fen\u002Fblog\u002Fhow-to-choose-darts","how to choose darts",[14,458,460],{"id":459},"check-the-wires-the-spider","Check the wires (the spider)",[10,462,463,464,467],{},"The ",[22,465,466],{},"spider"," is the set of metal wires dividing up the board. On modern boards it's thin and held without visible staples, which cuts down on bounce-outs. On older or entry-level boards, staples hold the wires in place.",[10,469,470],{},"Check every so often that:",[93,472,473,480,487],{},[59,474,475,476,479],{},"no wire ",[22,477,478],{},"lifts"," or moves when you press on it;",[59,481,482,483,486],{},"no staple is ",[22,484,485],{},"sticking out",";",[59,488,489,490,493],{},"no wire has been ",[22,491,492],{},"bent"," by an impact.",[10,495,496],{},"A loose wire means one bounce-out after another, and darts landing right on the line between two areas. If a wire is lifting, don't try to superglue it back: it's often a sign the board is near the end of its life.",[14,498,500],{"id":499},"when-to-replace-your-board","When to replace your board",[10,502,503],{},"A well-looked-after board lasts a long time, but not forever. It's time for a new one when:",[93,505,506,512,518,524,530],{},[59,507,508,511],{},[22,509,510],{},"holes stop closing",", even after rotating;",[59,513,514,517],{},[22,515,516],{},"fibres fall out",", or holes stay visible in treble 20;",[59,519,520,523],{},[22,521,522],{},"bounce-outs keep coming"," and your points aren't to blame;",[59,525,526,529],{},[22,527,528],{},"the surface bulges"," or dips noticeably;",[59,531,532,156],{},[22,533,534],{},"the spider comes loose",[10,536,537,538,541,542,546,547,156],{},"If you keep score with ",[152,539,241],{"href":540},"\u002Fen\u002Finstall",", a tired board shows up in your visits too: more bounce-outs to fix by hand, more darts falling out. For the rest of the set-up (height, lighting, protecting the wall), read ",[152,543,545],{"href":544},"\u002Fen\u002Fblog\u002Fset-up-a-dartboard-at-home","how to set up a dartboard at home",", and to get to know your board area by area, ",[152,548,550],{"href":549},"\u002Fen\u002Fblog\u002Fdartboard-anatomy","dartboard anatomy",[14,552,554],{"id":553},"the-essentials-in-5-habits","The essentials in 5 habits",[56,556,557,563,568,575,581],{},[59,558,559,562],{},[22,560,561],{},"Rotate"," the board regularly, 20 always at the top.",[59,564,565,567],{},[22,566,377],{},", and no cleaning products either.",[59,569,570,571,574],{},"Keep it ",[22,572,573],{},"away from radiators"," and damp.",[59,576,577,580],{},[22,578,579],{},"Slightly rounded points",", no burrs.",[59,582,583,586],{},[22,584,585],{},"Pull darts out straight",", with a slight twist.",{"title":291,"searchDepth":292,"depth":292,"links":588},[589,590,591,592,593,594,595,596],{"id":322,"depth":292,"text":323},{"id":344,"depth":292,"text":345},{"id":376,"depth":292,"text":377},{"id":390,"depth":292,"text":391},{"id":414,"depth":292,"text":415},{"id":459,"depth":292,"text":460},{"id":499,"depth":292,"text":500},{"id":553,"depth":292,"text":554},"Rotate the board, never wet it, look after your points, check the wires: the simple habits that keep a bristle dartboard going, and when to replace it.",{},"\u002Fen\u002Fblog\u002Fdartboard-care",{"title":314,"description":597},"en\u002Fblog\u002Fdartboard-care","ZeQg1hLpUc12bdf0eSqYqnk0-kMgJuzHlhh7XLkKAsw",1794595395230]